How to pick the right infrared lamp for your bathroom (without wasting money)
Nobody likes stepping out of a hot shower into a freezing bathroom. It’s a shock to the system. But if you just throw the most powerful heater you can find into a small room, you’re going to end up roasting yourself—and wasting a ton of electricity. Here’s the secret: infrared lamps don’t actually heat the air. They warm up you and the surfaces around you. Because of that, the size of your room completely changes which lamp you should buy. Picking your power If you’ve got a tiny powder room or a compact guest bath (under 5 square meters), keep it simple. A 400W to 600W lamp is plenty. If you go too high in a tiny space, the room hits a fever pitch way too fast. Your thermostat will be clicking on and off every few seconds, which is a great way to burn out the lamp’s filament way before its time. For those medium-sized bathrooms (5 to 12 square meters), you’re looking at 800W to 1200W. But here is a pro tip: instead of one giant, scorching lamp, try two smaller ones. It spreads the warmth around the room so you don’t have one “hot spot” and one “cold spot.” Then you have the big master baths or commercial spaces. These usually need 1500W or more. Why? Because big rooms usually have tons of tiles and high ceilings that soak up heat like a sponge. You need that extra kick to actually feel the warmth. The “wet” part of the bathroom Since we’re talking about bathrooms, water is the enemy. We use quartz glass and sealed connectors to keep moisture away from the electrics, but you still have to be smart about where you put them. Check your IP rating. If a lamp is rated for Zone 2, for example, it’s not meant to sit directly over your shower tray. Don’t risk it. Also, keep in mind that high-wattage lamps get really hot at the base. If you’re tucking a 1500W unit into a tight ceiling cavity, just make sure your wiring and ceiling materials can handle that kind of heat without getting damaged. Getting it installed The best way to do this is to put the lamps on their own dedicated circuit with a moisture-resistant switch. When you match the wattage to the actual size of the room, everything just works better. Your electrical panel isn’t stressed, your monthly power bill stays reasonable, and the whole system stays stable. Simple as that.